A moment of true happiness and an unavoidable smile as three dirty tired mountaineers approached their destination to spend a night in a truly magnifique setting.
After three days walking, two nights sleeping in a tent on the mountains edge awaken by the cows surrounding our tents - no other people to be seen for the better part of the last 24 hours - to sing our way through the Bear’s Lake, to cross the snow at point of “life at risk” and to the survive the storms threatening lightning - we had now conquered Vallee du Soussoueou - and we were on the last climb up to where we would be feed and enjoy a bunk bed at Le Refuge d’Arremoulit. It was a surreal moment arriving to this lake surrounded my mountains dusted with snow. This is what travel is for, once again realised, for doing the things you never imagined you would do.
ARRIVING IN FRANCE:
After a long day of a flight, a train trip, a bus ride and metros finally arrived at destination: France - for an evening listening to jazz in a smoke filled lounge enjoying French cheese, cured meats, bread, red wine, pig pate and people with a range of languages being spoken - a grand way to start a two and a half month affair with France.
The next day we went on a tour of the small city, Rennes, which went through historical old building and lead to the gardens to smell the roses. Then we went on a beautiful bike ride along the river to a small village - Bretton - a quick nap in the gardens and it was time for a beer in the sun. A couple more beers lead to a dance off in the kitchen and laughter shared with friends, old and new. Eating cheese, saucisson, bread, croissants and making chocolate eclairs was the beginning of what would be a rich food festival for my first taste of France. C’est tres bon! Then it was time to move on to the beach to stay at a family batch passed down through generations beside the sea, which would cover my head while dreaming through the dark hours of the day. An excited family thrilled by the arrival of their daughter, cousin, niece and sister. After a quick dip in the sea - first tempting self with feet in and then making the plunge and thankful for the decision. A reminder of the appreciation of the open sea with waves to crash around in - a welcome change from the rivers which were enjoyed but didn't hold the same excitement as the wild sea. Many dinners shared on the large outside table where traditional long lasting feasts were shared with a family reconnected over the summer holidays. Firstly, the aperitif, followed by salad, main meals of Ratatouille or baby Mussels - always followed by cheese and bread and samples of Grandad’s wine bottled in the 40’s. The blue cheese awoke my senses and sent me into a dreamy state of thanks of being in France and able to enjoy le fromage and the fruit of the moment: delicious melon. An evening after a day spent swimming in the sea starts with Champagne once all members of the family had arrived to join the gathering at the seaside. The night ended with traditional songs from the area and some more recognisable songs preformed by brothers with a common talent with the guitar. As observed from the eyes of a non-French speaking Kiwi - missing her own family un peu. The next day the guitars came out again for an afternoon dancing to the songs with friends and family.
We went on a day trip to Nantes, a couple of hours, to catch up with la otra pinche francesa. We watched a friend sing and play the trumpet at her fathers side on their mobile stage. Beautiful French tunes in the outdoor setting as a large mechanical Elephant strode past, in the Machines of Nantes, famous for its mechanical animals. Then onward for a tour of the town made rich by the planning and return trip of ships carrying slaves from Africa to the Americas and then the goods produced shipped to Europe on the return trip through this Port in Nantes. Ending the day with a beer enjoyed with old flatmates under the French sun as music plays at our side.
It was time to head south. A road trip treat for the eyes once the landscape changed to the pleasant view of fields and fields of bright sunflowers which were soon accompanied by vineyards and vineyards as we approached the wine area of Bordeaux. A mix of French, Spanish and English were spoken with my travel companions, sometimes getting a bit lost in translation:
Driver: Whats that ball for? (Squeaky ball removed from bag)
Me: Its for my ANKLE.
Driver: Is your UNCLE a dog?
After an overnight stop at a village - population 250: it was time to head to Les Pyrenees - the mountains in the South-West of France. The long drive south was rewarded with winding roads with valleys, waterfalls and greenery that was a breathe of fresh air. We packed up our bags and head to the mountains and into the unknown. The first part of the climb was up on rugged paths with 15kgs on my back which gave me, within the first hour, some large blisters which would make the next few days a challenging but rewarding few days. We arrived at the first hut to find that it was filled with rubbish, a strange smell and a small brick cover that was not a preferable shelter. Too late to move on we decided to set up our tents beside it and and make our camp for the night at the foot of the mountains. The morning we refreshed ourselves with the water running straight down from the glaciers from the mountains above - fresh water to fill our bottles and wash our faces. We set off and up to the top of a nearby mountain that lead to a beautiful lake between the two peaks. Half way up at the point of tears I realised that I had managed to wear away the skin on the back of one of my heels - after a stop to put fresh plasters and find motivation to keep going up up up - I found it in the heart shape that had formed on my heel, blood pumping through - a delight for being among the mountains and challenged to continued on. We made it to the top and dropped our bags off to run up higher and look out over the lake where we would enjoy our lunch and a sleep in the sun. Then it was a steep and sharp trip up, over and out of France down in to the Spanish Valley. A knowable change from greetings of “Bonjour “ to “Hola” told us we had succeeded in crossing over into Spain. A long and hot walk down the mountain side on a not so easy path was enjoyed for the scenery it offered, and that fact there was a beer waiting for us on arrival at the Refugio. Finally arriving a coke to replenish lost sugars was quickly followed by a beer that half way through began to effect us and make the setting up of the tent a little bit of fun. An early night to rest and prepare for another day of walking up up up but then back to the car for a couple of days rest. We began heading up the path that we had descended down the day before. A different harsh landscape from the greenery and wild flowers we had seen the day before was admired for its diversity. We arrived at the top after 3 hours of ascent up the mountain side just as the rain began and we found ourselves amongst the snowcapped mountain. A moment to appreciate the circle of mountains surrounding us and a climb (without bags thankfully for a moment) to a peak for a better view of our neighbouring abundance of cliff tops.
It was then to Garvarnie for a beer, a campsite, some baguettes, cheese and saucisson enjoyed by the turquoise riverside running down off the surrounding cliffs. To laugh away the mental and physical challenges of the last few days as pleasant experiences while we enjoyed a traditional mountain dinner of potatoes, cheese and ham while the storm began and we giggled at the thought of our tents flying off into the mountains as the hail fell and the wind picked up. The next day was a perfect start to the day waking up with the Cirque de Garvarnie, the highest waterfall in France, as the first view I saw when surfacing from my tent (which had impressed me by surviving the storms thunder and lightning and wind that had threatened it the night before). A breakfast of Pain au Chocolat and coffee to set us up for a days drive to Albi for an unexpected stop to a historical town to enjoy another extended family meal with many courses, with wine and cheese and french language flowing from all sides with a confused observer trying to pick up a few words here and there. The next day I took myself on a tour of the town, through the gardens and parks, along the riverside and through the small cobblestoned streets. Then out to the countryside to set up tents on the family land that overlooked the houses that winded up to the top of of a hill to create a delightful petit village, Cordes sur Ciel. We stayed next to an uninhabitable family home that hadn’t been lived in since the 1940’s - with a newly installed bathroom that had one of the most luxurious showers I had ever seen - shame there wasn’t, nor had there ever been, running water to enjoy this extravagance. After a couple of nights staying on this land, drinking red wine in the evening and walking through the fields in the day, following the same paths that their grandparents had walked to reach their school daily, and exploring the tiny cemetery where the family had been laid to rest since 1624, it was then time to head back to the mountains…
We found a campsite in Argeles Gasost to enjoy some wine under a tree next to the tents with the distant sounds of the river flowing in and the backdrop of mountains - and prepare for the next hike into the mountains that would have us returning to the same camp spot 5 days later, smelly, dirty, hungry but completely satisfied having explored and learnt some much about the mountains and about self in a few days getting immersed into the mountains of the French Pyrenees.
The 5 day Hike of the Least Efficient Mountaineers -
DAY ONE: Up into the clouds - THE MIST.
We enjoyed a quick breakfast and packed up our tents and had our last hot shower for a while. We got last minute survival supplies: baguettes, cheese and saucisson and then packed bags and headed up into the valley leading to the surrounding mountains. After a couple of hours through the bush and up a valley we arrived at the snow where we were meet by horses and donkeys happily walking along the frozen cliffside. Then it was our turn to stumble up the side of the frozen land - to reach the top to look out over the peak and down into the lake below. Lunch time and a waiting game for the clouds to clear so we could see the path to take. The suns reflection on the ripples in a calm lake surface. A mini iceberg gently drifting within reach. A waterfall from the surrounding glacier and the accompanying birds that can be heard but not seen due to the mist - an afternoon spent in the clouds that kindly opened up at intervals to display the beauty of the surrounding landscape we had climbed up and into. An escape to a mountain top where the ice allowed no passage and the only way is down… As the clouds grew thicker and a mist surrounded us we decided that the day was coming to an end and we should head down to the lower lake to make camp for the night as the path down (and to a warmer climate a bit further from the iceberg filled lake) was hidden by the mist. We decided we would need to sleep three in a tent made for one to get through the cold night high in the sky. Like Sardines in a can we slept through the night. Aware of the passing curious cows that sniffed the rocks surrounding our tent to protect it from be trampled by the herd walking down to its sleeping ground.
DAY TWO: Don’t look down. THE SNOW.
Waking to sit on a rock and watch the mountain peaks in the distance slowly eaten and released by the clouds…
A detour track found up the other side of the mountain meant the path down was not needed. A physical challenge intensified by the arrival of small snow crossing needed high up and arriving at a point of no return - only way forward - onwards and upwards. Attempts to avoid the snow making situation more difficult that necessary. To arrive at rivers to cross where water could be collected to continue day in the heat of the sun contrasting with the cool touch of the snows surface. Lunch at the riverside of couscous, cheese and tomatoes and sardines - last of fresh supplies. A long day where once we got clear of the snow we started a race against the clouds that threatened once again to hide our way forward. We finally made it to a shelter to set up our tents and let our exhausted bodies rest, ready for the last major hike across a valley and up into the other side. Again woken in the morning by more curious cows with their bells braking their fast near our tents.
DAY THREE: Surviving the Vallee of Soussoueou to arrive to the magnifique setting. THE RAIN.
Day started in the rain with the paths hidden by the mud… few moments - gladly didn’t come to anything - where we almost turned back. Some marks in the mud which were assumed by fellow hikers to possibly be bear prints. This lead to a high pitched choir heading into the depths of forest (influence for later tunes). We slid over rocks and constantly checking the outgoings of animals to assess which animals had recently passed by the path and left behinds its mark and breakfast on the path. Then there was a sign of human life as a tourist train tooted in the distance up above, a track we had to climb to and cross to continue our way to our final destination. Swampy paths, rivers crossed, horses passed and a walk up up up where we made it to the cafe placed in middle of nowhere for the tourist train. People having paid their 19 Euros to arrive in the valley where we surfaced from dirty and with huge smiles after walking 3 days to get here. Then the last hike up to the mountain to the refuge that was waiting for us to offer a candlelight dinner and a sheltered sleep from another cool iceberg lake that lay beside us in this freezing summer evening.
DAY FOUR: Up and over to Spain. THE ICE.
A calming start to the day being served real coffee and a chance to refresh supplies. The concerning part of the day was the beginning - so we could then continue into an enjoyable afternoon in the sun. Starting to feel a bit more a ease with the snow, another challenge set as the snow was still ice, not yet touched my the sun. A path was not yet made for us to cross, so we all had a go at making our own little path to lead the others across. we made it and once again with big smiles for having learned a new skill and having made it to a new peak to head up and over to Spain.
Climbing down the mountain side the choir was created: our mornings walk lead to our name - “The Least Efficient Mountaineers” as we took almost two hours to cross a path that took most 40 minutes. Top Hits: Staying Alive - “Ah ah ah ah Staying Alive Staying Alive” Sung in high pitched voice with fear trembling in the vocal cords - influenced by bear walk through the forest the day before. Another hit single, Rhythm of the Hike - “This is the Rhythm of the hike, the hike, oh yeah, the hike. This is the rhythm of my life, my life, oh yeah.”
A long lunch by a glorious lake to watch the brave ant-like people on the surrounding mountains crossing paths that made our 5 -10 meter snow crossings (they had been longer the day before) look like childs play. Another river to cross and a few more unavoidable snow spots with paths well set from many walkers already having crossed this day to make the last hour hike. We arrived at the Spanish Refugio where we could get another hot meal and find a place to set our tents, have a couple of beers and enjoy our last night in the mountains - beginning to relax by the lakeside in the sun and consider the success of our trip. Only one more days walk.
DAY FIVE: This is the end, the only end my friend. THE SUN.
Tired bodies on our last climb up the mountain to confidently cross the snow lined tip and over down into the valley - a mere few hours walk to our car, to civilisation and to a hot shower. One more lunch shared at the riverside of 2 minute noodles and tuna - then to be pleasantly surprised but slightly disappointed by an easy walk down, no major challenges or cliffs to conquer, just a stroll down and out of the mountains which so kindly had hosted us for the last 5 days. There were many smiles and laughter to have completed the circle and have arrived for a real meal of salad, Confit de canard, hand made fries and a creme brûlée accompanied with some nice French wine. Full bellies off to sleep well and rest our tired eyes.
To end this journey with friends in France we took a trip further south and into Spain for a few days at the Mediterranean Sea - three days swimming in the open sea to wash away the grime that had imbedded itself into our pores after 5 days hiking in the mountains. Sitting in Cadaques - a whitewashed village on the Costa Brava, offering beaches to explore and tapas to enjoy - after a thrilling and invigorating time in the mountains we finished on the edge of the sea, as all great adventures should, with a pint of beer and a pizza shared with friends.
Dedicated to the Santa Faustina and Vincent for their generosity and laughter - for showing me the beauty of France and its mountains, and for sharing lots of saucisson and cheese with me. And for quite possibly putting me off sardines for life.
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