Thursday 19 June 2014

Speaking Spanish in Munich

The moment had arrived. I was finally in Europe and as a smart cool traveller I had planned the beginning of the adventure with a six hour wait in Paris airport (with a pain au chocolat and expresso - a necessity while in France), then a 3 hour train ride followed by another 2 hour wait in Strasbourg and then the final stage to Munich, 5 hours by train. Relieved to finally be on my final leg of the journey I drifted off to sleep. I awoke to a stopped train and an announcement only in German, everyone started to leave the train and I began to wonder if learning a bit of German before coming to Germany  may have been helpful. I heard the word “Kaputt” and realised the train was broken and I needed to leave, I followed the crowd and found myself at another platform, the only train worker I found did not speak much English but motioned towards the train in front of us. I got on somewhat hesitantly but unsure what else to do. After 10 minutes of a mild panic and being cramped into a corridor of a full train I finally began to ask the surrounding few people if anyone spoke English, first try failed - second attempt was a success. He explained the situation and informed me of the station to get off and where to go from there. The first non-English speakers were very kind to this tired traveller stumbling over her large backpacks and almost at the edge of tears after 30 hours travel and feeling a bit confused in a world that sings a different tune. But their kind smiles made me realise I was here and I had made my first friends in Germany.
I finally arrived in Munich at 11pm after a long delay (what a surprise in Germany!) and no ability to communicate with my friend who would meet me. But he was there waiting - “Hola amigo!” After 5 years a friendship rekindled like it had only been 3 weeks. A short walk back to central apartment to share a German beer and catch up on a few years until eyelids could no longer resist closure. 

Exploring Munich by day the next morning I was immediately aware of the structure and height of the buildings, which apparently is a law. No building can be higher than the top towers of the main church in the city centre. Such a difference to the skyscrapers that were becoming the norm for me in Hong Kong - Munich seemed to be more my kind of city. A quick but appropriate tour of the city lead to the river where all of Munich seemed to be - everyone together at the riverside enjoying a drink and the beauty of the summer day. This was my first introduction to the relaxed nature of nudity in Europe. At parts of the riverside where all were having great time lay a few nude males relaxed in this open and popular setting. The police happily trotting along on their horses while a drunk Russian sung songs to the surrounding audience. Here I reminisced with a dear friend on our time in Mexico as students - speaking spanish at the riverside with an Italian living in Munich. On next to the Beer garden, the Chinese tower filled with people who have left work early and have headed to strengthen their right arms by frequently lifting a heavy glass filled with a litre of beer. As the sun began to fade some more friends joined us, we devoured an overly salted giant pretzel that I could hang off my arm matched nicely with my own litre glass of beer. Germans, tourists and families sitting below the branches of the chestnut trees in a relaxed but active Friday evening.  
More German beer was consumed over the weekend (have to try the goods of the country you are in) and later enjoyed in an outdoor area where all are free to bring their own drinks and hang out in the the town square. Here I witnessed the German mafia bottle lady. In Germany for every glass bottle returned you are paid 8 cents, and for every plastic bottle 25 cents. A lot of people take this up as a form of income cruising the streets collecting the bottles of beers - post-enjoyment - but this one lady had claimed this popular drinking area as hers and had workers who came and asked for the bottles and sat and waited for people to finish their beers to take the empty bottles. A slight distraction while having a nice evening out.   

My last day in Munich and slightly tired from trying German beers we decided to bike to the lake for a swim and relax by the waterside. Biking through the streets of Munich following my friend I had to set in place my survival skills as buses and trams flew past on the wrong side of the road - do something everyday that scares you (not kills you). We ended up taking an extremely beautiful scenic bike ride along the river. Then arriving at the lake where families were set up for the afternoon with their picnics and grills, showing a diversity in cultures in Munich - they were making the most of a sunny sunday. An enjoyable afternoon in what seemed to me like a very large but very crowded lake. I am used to being spoiled with space in a natural environment in New Zealand. We began the hour long bike back before the darkness took over and the police pulled us up for lack of lighting on bikes (my friend had suffered 4 tickets last summer and didn't want a repeat offence). Plus it was time to make pizza and enjoy a delicious meal of home made pizza base with mozzarella, prosciutto and rocket on top. A perfect way to end a weekend of German beer, bike ways explored, natural beauty in the city centre of Munich, buildings pleasant to the eye and perfect weather.  A tasteful introduction to Europe. 
The next morning as timing with the the metro was off, I had a mad rush with 7 minutes from arriving at metro station under train station to find my platform and train to Waldshut. Somehow I found my way to Platform 19 and boarded the train. I decided I better cheek it was the correct train jumped off to ask a train worker, a positive response. On quickly getting back on the train I found a seat the doors closed and the train departed, phew. Just in time for the next adventure, WWOOFing in Dogern, Germany. 


Dedicated to “El Pinche Toscano” for your friendship - and your amazing hospitality, delicious pastas and fine German beer shared over good talks. 

Friday 6 June 2014

Getting Lost in Hong Kong.

After an impressive entrance by night I was ready to explore Hong Kong by day. I left the little apartment on the 28th floor (kindly offered, with occupants away in Thailand) in search of Wi-Fi to send “No panic necessary” messages to family of a safe arrival. I was to return to the apartment 10 hours later slightly sunburnt, with blistered swollen feet, a couple of beers in my belly and an exhaustion that can only come from a satisfying day of adventure. 

I headed off into the unknown with no idea of the time of day or where I was heading. The early morning smell of meat filled the streets while the men prepared their stock of hanging animal parts on the side of the road. It reminded me of the smell in the streets of Mexico City. I decided to head to the water’s edge and found myself at Memorial Park - the time displayed on the parks clock as 07:06am. Amazed at the already burning heat I had jet lag to thank for already being awake for a couple of hours. The park was filled with a range of ages and sizes running, walking, swinging arms and doing tai chi with the background of a still harbour bridging a gap between the islands of Hong Kong. After internet tasks were fulfilled I accepted an invitation to go to the Dragon Boat racing at Stanley beach in Southern Hong Kong. The only indication for directions was to take the No. 6 bus. Diverging from main street to main street where a bus (and then surely a bus stop) was spotted. At one stage I crossed the road 3 times then told myself this wasn't going to make the No. 6 appear on the bus timetable. Almost at exhaustion point with the heat and sore feet I headed over a bridge to what looked like an air-conditioned mall to look at the map and regroup options - when I looked down to the street below and saw at the No. 6 on the sign and almost heard the sound of angels, “Aaaahhhhhh” (high-pitched). The bus ride over the twin pecks from the second storey was breathtaking and worth the blistered feet. Passing through resort settings and arriving at Stanley Beach was welcomed with crowds, families enjoying the public holiday, swimming, building sandcastles and watching from a distance the racing of the dragon boats. The beating of the drums, the excited voices and the warnings played over a stereo system of extreme heat - “take the necessary precautions” - created a beach atmosphere that was unfamiliar to me. I took it all in and began to wonder if I would find the friend of a friend I was meant to be meeting up with. Describing myself as someone in a stripy top with the look of a lost tourist would be hard to spot amongst this crowd. Deciding not to worry and to enjoy I placed my tired feet in the sea and watched the boats and chanting in the distance. I bought a refreshing Thai beer and sat in the sand taking in my surroundings. Sufficiently hot and starting to become slightly bothered I decided to head back to town. On asking directions for the bus to town an Irish man asked, “Are you looking of Stanley Plaza?”. I replied that I wasn’t. After he left and I passed a sign towards Stanley Plaza I thought to myself - should I be looking for Stanley Plaza? So I took a detour and ended up at a beautiful spot above the water with the sound of live music echoing from below. I found a line of bars filled with people already slightly drunk into the early afternoon from the dragon boat festival up the road - here was where I managed to meet up with my new friends who would share with me top tips of Hong Kong.

I decided that Day 2 was the day to find some great Dim Sum, dumplings and noodle soup. I meet a friend at her recommended Dim Sum restaurant for lunch. Luk Yu Teahouse was an elegant traditional teahouse, surprisingly I welcomed the hot tea and hot food after a morning in the thick humid heat outside that slowed me down. My favourite, yet another surprise after a bad experience in New Zealand, was the Pork Steamed Buns, the fluffy and light outer bun with the inner tasty stewed pork - each mouthful a display of textures and flavours. New thing tried: steamed rice wrapped in lotus leaves, which was described to me like a tamale but with lotus leaves. My tastebuds were to be again treated that evening while dining alone at Din Tai Fung in Kowloon enjoying a steamed wonton noodle soup. It had a subtle but flavour filled soup base with spring onion, freshly made noodles, pork and shrimp wontons floating on top and finished off with some fresh strips of ginger. Again with a never-ending cup of tea. 

As well as being delicious these meals keep me going for the days adventures which began on Hollywood Road. A procession of coffin shops was my first observation on this famous street, having no real necessity for it right now I only stuck around long enough to admire the craftsmanship and beauty of these large wooden coffins. Next stop and by far one of my most enjoyable experiences was the Man Mo Temple, as I entered the high temperatures from outside were intensified in the temple. The air was thick and had an overwhelming stench of incense burning. The chatter of women inside talking in pairs was like a soundtrack to the colours (dominantly red and gold), dragon sculptures and offerings which created a conflicting atmosphere of buzzing spiritual activity inside the temple. On looking up in the temple I noticed that the spirals above my head were large incense burning which made the overbearing smell understandable. 

Then after another distracted walk through the streets I found the ferry to Kowloon. After heading to the Ladies Market and Sneaker street I found solitude in Kowloon Park - very much welcomed after overwhelming missions through the busy streets and markets filled with people and advertising. On heading to the waterfront of Kowloon (the opposing island to Hong Kong Island) I found myself on Peking St, I recalled reading that there was a bar here that had the best view in Hong Kong. In an attempt to not look so much like the stinky tourist having wandered off the streets with her day back and shirt soaked from days adventures and heat I equipped myself with red lips and went into one of the more expensive bars in Hong Kong, Aqua Spirit. I didn't expect to be let in but once I made it up to the 30th floor and let into the bar I looked out onto the array of city lights and buildings - a closer view of what I had enjoyed on the plane ride into Hong Kong a couple of days earlier. Impressed I sat down for a drink, I quickly realised that I had spent the majority of my days budget and only had enough for a mineral water, a small one. Lifting my head high I ordered my water and laughed at myself on the inside. After a very refreshing drink with a lime to add a hint of citrus and a bowl of olives I decided I wanted to head back onto the street where I belonged at this moment to watch the Symphony of Lights with all the other sweaty tourists. Not quite sure what to expect I thought it had already started as the buildings across the harbour never seemed to sleep. Then it began, an array of tempo music, laser lights shooting out the top of the high-rise building and the colours that spread across a grouping of the major skyscrapers. I had never seem something so strange in my life as I marvelled at the extravagance and matching soundtrack that played on the observatory. I took a night ferry back across to Hong Kong Island in a surreal and once again exhausted state. I stumbled back to my little apartment on the 28th floor and contemplated what Hong Kong may have to offer on my final day.

A slow start to the day to prepare for long departure journey which will finally end in Munich. Much to my pleasure I found that you are able to check your bags in in the morning for my evening flight in town. Then from there able to set off into the day. After some flavour filled pork and leek dumplings at a dumpling house I went off in search of a bus. Hong Kong transport is great, the MTR metro, the ferries, the buses - all cheap and quick (once found) - however my continuing battle was finding the right bus stop that would get me to my desired destination. This time the search for bus No.15. After wandering in the streets for almost 2 hours I found the brother of bus No.15C. I jumped aboard happy to be sitting out of sun and on way to goal of the day: The Peak. Once aboard and getting bearings I realised this bus only took me to the Peak Tram, not the Peak itself. Not wanting further crowds as I saw the line of people waiting to climb what I will not now know I looked across the road to “Hong Kong Park”. I had made my way near the Peak but chose lush vegetation, waterfalls, a whole heap of birds over crowds and heat under the demanding sun. After a bit of exploring in Hong Kong Park I found a Tea House where I watched the process of washing the mini tea pot and the pouring and washing of the leaves. An intrigue into the process and a calming way to complete an afternoon of crowded streets, with Hong Kong Park out the window and the gentle chatter of a few workers and tea drinking companions. I tried to regain my dignity from the sweating, red faced tourist with a bag too many, a small wet dress and sneakers on. Here this image fades into peacefulness as I drink tea and prepare for the next stage of the journey. 

My last few hours in Hong Kong I was lucky enough to have an invitation to a new friends house to experience the Candlelight Vidil - this year was the 25th anniversary and big numbers were expected. The MTR station filled with people heading to the largest gathering area in Hong Kong, Victoria Park. A powerful experience from the 18th floor of her apartment where you could hear the chants but enjoy a bird’s eye view of the largest gathering of people my eyes had ever seen. On June 4th, 25 years ago a group of people having a peaceful protest in Hong Kong were massacred, numbers are disputed but it was believed that around 1000 people lost their lives that day in 1989. The catalyst for the protest being Hong Kong powerful desire to have autonomy from main land China. Having walked through the park a couple of days before I was amazed at the amount of people present at this protest. A sea of candlelight looked artificial - as the time went on and more lights lit up the park, off in the distance the candlelight looked like a bed of ash still burning after a paper fire has freshly been put out. After watching the crowds disperse it was time to leave and start the next stage of my journey.
I thank Hong Kong and the people I encountered there who made me feel welcome and shared with me a piece of the city in the first step of my adventure. 

Dedicated to the three “S”’s - Sophie for her generous offer of allowing me to stay while she was away, and Sarah and Sofia who helped me see a side of Hong Kong that I couldn't get out of any travel book. 


“I’ve learnt that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.”

Maya Angelou - African American Author, Poet and civil activist. 


Monday 2 June 2014

First Stop: Hong Kong

2013 was not my favourite of years so in December I bought a one way ticket to Paris and decided to explore, see some old friends and find adventure - while enjoying a variety of cultures and languages abroad. No real idea of destination or plan but with a burning desire to live, laugh, learn and make opportunities become realities and dreams become the everyday life.

First stop: Hong Kong. 

3 days to take a deep breathe and see where the next 6 months may take me, think a little about what it is I want to achieve and prepare myself for some awakening experiences. Also, to see a buzzing city and eat some great dumplings.

Waking up among a display of colourful skyscrapers filled with unknown people who start their day in this humid overcast city I thought back to last night: an array of glittering beads among an island like never seen before. Flying over the dark ocean which suddenly comes alive with colours and towers.

On the aeroplane I was pleasantly surprised finding my seat with plenty of space in the “bulkhead seating” (which I later found out as its name). As I sat and began to remove the necessities for my 12 hour flight I heard a friendly “Hi” and was to meet my flight companion. As I got up to put the bags away I immediately recognised that this person was not of normal height. If I had been less absorbed in unpacking my travel journal, kindle, pens, lip balm, mints (all necessary for the first 20 minutes that I can't access my bags) I may have noticed that this person had been accompanied by other rather tall men, who were wearing jackets with “New Zealand” on the back. If I has been more observant I may not have stupidly asked “Do you play basketball by any chance? Your quite tall.” After a positive response - I then continued my sports naivety, “who do you play for?”. I was then to find out that my travel companion was off to Russia to represent our county in the sport I know nothing off other than someone called Steven Adams has gone to play in the States. 


Apart from a slight intrigue and a few questions about what it was to be a Tall Black - the highlight of the plane journey definitely goes to flying over Manila. I had a sudden urge to lift the window blind and see if the blinding light of day was starting to fade. I noticed in the distance the clouds lighting up, on closer observation I noticed that it was not man made but large forked lightning. As a spiral of clouds contained this lightning, I was exposed to one of the most active sunsets I have ever seen. The lights below from ships like glow worms in the sea, a line of blood red on the horizon and the clouds awakening from within with shocks of colour (slowly and unnervingly getting closer and closer). A real treasure for the eyes and an opportune moment to stop and think - this is why I am here on this plane. To see things in this world that I could not even have imagined. 

Dedicated to Al for his continuing generosity and for supplying me with the tools to fulfil my desire to put some words on paper…