PART THREE: Family in France

An invitation to go to Amsterdam for the weekend was accepted with enthusiasm. The time had arrived. Family time in Europe. As I stepped off the train and headed towards the station a familiar face walked towards me with arms wide open. A teary reunion between mother and daughter in the run down train station of Amsterdam. After an afternoon of catching up, it was off to dinner and to explore the streets of Amsterdam by night. We made it to the Red light district, and not really knowing to expect I was stunned by what I saw. Ladies standing behind glass doors offering themselves to the drunken men on the streets and creating a demeaning tourist attraction. The smell wafting through the air and in the shops showed apparent sex and drug tourism that this city is know for - but which we only observed from a distance. My museum of choice for The Netherlands was Van Gogh’s exhibition, learning the history and life of a famous artist who struggled in existence and was sadly only recognised for his talent once he had left the earth. A too common tragedy. To end our time in Amsterdam we left the city and went an hours train ride to the beach, a swim in the North Sea was followed by an afternoon drinking rosé and eating mussels while lying in the sun. We were now ready for France.

Paris, the city of love, was the destination for our family reunion. Arriving in what seemed to be the servant courtiers of a historical hotel was actually a surprisingly spacious apartment in a thriving area of Paris. Excitement to be together with familiar faces lead to a week filled with laughter, biking through a busy city, and a realisation why this is one of the top tourist spots of the world with a reputation of style and beauty. The first day we set off on the bikes to explore the top areas of the centre - initially terrified by the busy traffic surrounding me (a bit different to the quiet villages I was used to) - I quickly learnt that when riding a bike in Paris, and throughout Europe, you are given more space and acceptance on the road. Something foreign to me coming from New Zealand. We biked under Eiffey, climbed the Arc de Triomphe, visited Victor Hugo’s house to see a literacy hero of his day, went to the Notre Dam, biked to canals and to parks and sat at riverside with beer. We ate snails, confit de canard and creme brûlées. We drank champagne with sweet treats, and rosé with cheese. We began each day with croissants and pain aux chocolate. A real treat to all senses. 

One sunny afternoon in Paris, after a day biking around the city, we decided to rebel and do something that had been on our minds for a while. We found the location and sorted the pricing and followed the friendly Parisian down the stairs to the waiting room in a dungeon concrete basement. We sat on the rounded purple velvet seats and giggled nervously at our plan. Then the time arrived, the workbench was set up and sterilised and my companion stepped up to take the plunge first. Shared gazes, a few photos, a switch over and a re-sterilisation and we were the proud owners of a sibling inspired design. Care instructions were explained and we left, once again giggling - will be hard to forget this souvenir, a tattoo from Paris.  

Next we jumped in our rented car and headed south. An afternoon in Versailles to watch a ridiculous but entertaining fountain show timed to classical music - the water shooting up and falling in an artistic display. Drinking orange juice while surrounded by the abundance of orange trees in the impressive gardens. A night in the countryside was followed by a bike trip to the Villandry Castle with yet another extensive garden, filled with a colourful diversity of vegetables. Then we were on the road again and planned a detour to check out an architecture school in the back roads of France. Our Google Guide took us the adventurous way - coming in the “forbidden” road - a sign we must have missed. As we searched for the restaurant we came across a large building with people eating in an outdoor courtyard. Slightly lost we were welcomed by a tall man who himself looked rather confused at what we were doing there. He offered us what was left of the students lunch as we sat down to enjoy a meal with the founder of this 25 year old school. It was set up to create a space for students to explore their creativity, and work on the many projects surrounding the area where we ate. Our host generously took the time to explain the history and gave us a quick tour of the main building where the students worked in the old horse stables that had been renovated. It was a large space with an array of chair styles and art works - including a large wooden door donated from Rudolf Steiner, the founder of an alternative education.  Alexander von Vegesack was our tour guide and continued his hospitality even after he realised the mistake we had made. We checked out some of the projects which were alternative buildings such as a traditional bamboo hut donated by Japan, and other designs that the students had worked on next to the fields surrounding the disney castle and the horse stables. 

After 2 days travelling we arrived at our destination, a Castle set in an open grounds surrounded by trees, a pool to refresh after a hot day, and an old grey structure where we would lay our heads to rest after the festivities. Here we would witness a French wedding - over the course of 3 days - filled with great food, wine and friendly French community accepting a Kiwi into their family. The wedding had the first ceremony at the “Hotel de Ville”, the local town hall. We were welcomed by the Mayor who prepared an introduction in English for the foreign guests in the audience. This followed by a tearful ceremony in the gardens. A beautiful bride surfacing from the castle doors like a princess walking through the gardens to her smiling husband to be. Both sides of the couple relayed translations for the readings and vows in French and English. A unity of languages and cultures. In true French style there was Champagne, Fois Gras, a 4-course meal of seafood, veal, cheeses and dessert. To be burned off afterwards dancing to the band into the early hours of the morning. Beautiful day to share with a cool couple in a castle in France.

The moment arrived to step away form my failing French and be a helpful translator as we crossed the border to Spain to spent a night at St. Sebastian. First stop was the lookout on top of the hill looking over the beach and the town. An unexpected theme park met us on top of the mountain, it seemed to be abandoned and a strange companion for the new hotel set up at its side. We climbed the towering stairs of a castle tower that was the home of the old lighthouse. The top of the tower claimed to be the “most beautiful view in the world”. It could be up there. The heat made the only option for the afternoon to head to the beach. The clear blue sea welcomed us and woke us up for an evening of Pinchos (Spanish tapas). People crowded around the bars where the benches were lined with small plates of food.  We joined in with the tradition to throw our serviette on the floor if the food was enjoyed. A visit to a few bars left us satisfied and ready to head back to France. After following a tourist tram through the streets of Biarritz to see the top spots of the town we arrived in Hossegor for a few days in the sun. We lay on beach, and watched the lightning storms by night and crazy waves by day that sucked the children in the ocean with the undertow of the sea. It was then time to drive back to Paris and ready for the next stage. My French adventure was over. Time to explore what more Europe has to offer. 

Dedicated to my family and friends who never seise to surprise me with their cool traveller ways. And for adding a new and fabulous dimension to my European adventure. And thanks to Gloria Google for taking us on a fun detour or two.