Getting Lost in Hong Kong.

After an impressive entrance by night I was ready to explore Hong Kong by day. I left the little apartment on the 28th floor (kindly offered, with occupants away in Thailand) in search of Wi-Fi to send “No panic necessary” messages to family of a safe arrival. I was to return to the apartment 10 hours later slightly sunburnt, with blistered swollen feet, a couple of beers in my belly and an exhaustion that can only come from a satisfying day of adventure. 

I headed off into the unknown with no idea of the time of day or where I was heading. The early morning smell of meat filled the streets while the men prepared their stock of hanging animal parts on the side of the road. It reminded me of the smell in the streets of Mexico City. I decided to head to the water’s edge and found myself at Memorial Park - the time displayed on the parks clock as 07:06am. Amazed at the already burning heat I had jet lag to thank for already being awake for a couple of hours. The park was filled with a range of ages and sizes running, walking, swinging arms and doing tai chi with the background of a still harbour bridging a gap between the islands of Hong Kong. After internet tasks were fulfilled I accepted an invitation to go to the Dragon Boat racing at Stanley beach in Southern Hong Kong. The only indication for directions was to take the No. 6 bus. Diverging from main street to main street where a bus (and then surely a bus stop) was spotted. At one stage I crossed the road 3 times then told myself this wasn't going to make the No. 6 appear on the bus timetable. Almost at exhaustion point with the heat and sore feet I headed over a bridge to what looked like an air-conditioned mall to look at the map and regroup options - when I looked down to the street below and saw at the No. 6 on the sign and almost heard the sound of angels, “Aaaahhhhhh” (high-pitched). The bus ride over the twin pecks from the second storey was breathtaking and worth the blistered feet. Passing through resort settings and arriving at Stanley Beach was welcomed with crowds, families enjoying the public holiday, swimming, building sandcastles and watching from a distance the racing of the dragon boats. The beating of the drums, the excited voices and the warnings played over a stereo system of extreme heat - “take the necessary precautions” - created a beach atmosphere that was unfamiliar to me. I took it all in and began to wonder if I would find the friend of a friend I was meant to be meeting up with. Describing myself as someone in a stripy top with the look of a lost tourist would be hard to spot amongst this crowd. Deciding not to worry and to enjoy I placed my tired feet in the sea and watched the boats and chanting in the distance. I bought a refreshing Thai beer and sat in the sand taking in my surroundings. Sufficiently hot and starting to become slightly bothered I decided to head back to town. On asking directions for the bus to town an Irish man asked, “Are you looking of Stanley Plaza?”. I replied that I wasn’t. After he left and I passed a sign towards Stanley Plaza I thought to myself - should I be looking for Stanley Plaza? So I took a detour and ended up at a beautiful spot above the water with the sound of live music echoing from below. I found a line of bars filled with people already slightly drunk into the early afternoon from the dragon boat festival up the road - here was where I managed to meet up with my new friends who would share with me top tips of Hong Kong.

I decided that Day 2 was the day to find some great Dim Sum, dumplings and noodle soup. I meet a friend at her recommended Dim Sum restaurant for lunch. Luk Yu Teahouse was an elegant traditional teahouse, surprisingly I welcomed the hot tea and hot food after a morning in the thick humid heat outside that slowed me down. My favourite, yet another surprise after a bad experience in New Zealand, was the Pork Steamed Buns, the fluffy and light outer bun with the inner tasty stewed pork - each mouthful a display of textures and flavours. New thing tried: steamed rice wrapped in lotus leaves, which was described to me like a tamale but with lotus leaves. My tastebuds were to be again treated that evening while dining alone at Din Tai Fung in Kowloon enjoying a steamed wonton noodle soup. It had a subtle but flavour filled soup base with spring onion, freshly made noodles, pork and shrimp wontons floating on top and finished off with some fresh strips of ginger. Again with a never-ending cup of tea. 

As well as being delicious these meals keep me going for the days adventures which began on Hollywood Road. A procession of coffin shops was my first observation on this famous street, having no real necessity for it right now I only stuck around long enough to admire the craftsmanship and beauty of these large wooden coffins. Next stop and by far one of my most enjoyable experiences was the Man Mo Temple, as I entered the high temperatures from outside were intensified in the temple. The air was thick and had an overwhelming stench of incense burning. The chatter of women inside talking in pairs was like a soundtrack to the colours (dominantly red and gold), dragon sculptures and offerings which created a conflicting atmosphere of buzzing spiritual activity inside the temple. On looking up in the temple I noticed that the spirals above my head were large incense burning which made the overbearing smell understandable. 

Then after another distracted walk through the streets I found the ferry to Kowloon. After heading to the Ladies Market and Sneaker street I found solitude in Kowloon Park - very much welcomed after overwhelming missions through the busy streets and markets filled with people and advertising. On heading to the waterfront of Kowloon (the opposing island to Hong Kong Island) I found myself on Peking St, I recalled reading that there was a bar here that had the best view in Hong Kong. In an attempt to not look so much like the stinky tourist having wandered off the streets with her day back and shirt soaked from days adventures and heat I equipped myself with red lips and went into one of the more expensive bars in Hong Kong, Aqua Spirit. I didn't expect to be let in but once I made it up to the 30th floor and let into the bar I looked out onto the array of city lights and buildings - a closer view of what I had enjoyed on the plane ride into Hong Kong a couple of days earlier. Impressed I sat down for a drink, I quickly realised that I had spent the majority of my days budget and only had enough for a mineral water, a small one. Lifting my head high I ordered my water and laughed at myself on the inside. After a very refreshing drink with a lime to add a hint of citrus and a bowl of olives I decided I wanted to head back onto the street where I belonged at this moment to watch the Symphony of Lights with all the other sweaty tourists. Not quite sure what to expect I thought it had already started as the buildings across the harbour never seemed to sleep. Then it began, an array of tempo music, laser lights shooting out the top of the high-rise building and the colours that spread across a grouping of the major skyscrapers. I had never seem something so strange in my life as I marvelled at the extravagance and matching soundtrack that played on the observatory. I took a night ferry back across to Hong Kong Island in a surreal and once again exhausted state. I stumbled back to my little apartment on the 28th floor and contemplated what Hong Kong may have to offer on my final day.

A slow start to the day to prepare for long departure journey which will finally end in Munich. Much to my pleasure I found that you are able to check your bags in in the morning for my evening flight in town. Then from there able to set off into the day. After some flavour filled pork and leek dumplings at a dumpling house I went off in search of a bus. Hong Kong transport is great, the MTR metro, the ferries, the buses - all cheap and quick (once found) - however my continuing battle was finding the right bus stop that would get me to my desired destination. This time the search for bus No.15. After wandering in the streets for almost 2 hours I found the brother of bus No.15C. I jumped aboard happy to be sitting out of sun and on way to goal of the day: The Peak. Once aboard and getting bearings I realised this bus only took me to the Peak Tram, not the Peak itself. Not wanting further crowds as I saw the line of people waiting to climb what I will not now know I looked across the road to “Hong Kong Park”. I had made my way near the Peak but chose lush vegetation, waterfalls, a whole heap of birds over crowds and heat under the demanding sun. After a bit of exploring in Hong Kong Park I found a Tea House where I watched the process of washing the mini tea pot and the pouring and washing of the leaves. An intrigue into the process and a calming way to complete an afternoon of crowded streets, with Hong Kong Park out the window and the gentle chatter of a few workers and tea drinking companions. I tried to regain my dignity from the sweating, red faced tourist with a bag too many, a small wet dress and sneakers on. Here this image fades into peacefulness as I drink tea and prepare for the next stage of the journey. 

My last few hours in Hong Kong I was lucky enough to have an invitation to a new friends house to experience the Candlelight Vidil - this year was the 25th anniversary and big numbers were expected. The MTR station filled with people heading to the largest gathering area in Hong Kong, Victoria Park. A powerful experience from the 18th floor of her apartment where you could hear the chants but enjoy a bird’s eye view of the largest gathering of people my eyes had ever seen. On June 4th, 25 years ago a group of people having a peaceful protest in Hong Kong were massacred, numbers are disputed but it was believed that around 1000 people lost their lives that day in 1989. The catalyst for the protest being Hong Kong powerful desire to have autonomy from main land China. Having walked through the park a couple of days before I was amazed at the amount of people present at this protest. A sea of candlelight looked artificial - as the time went on and more lights lit up the park, off in the distance the candlelight looked like a bed of ash still burning after a paper fire has freshly been put out. After watching the crowds disperse it was time to leave and start the next stage of my journey.

I thank Hong Kong and the people I encountered there who made me feel welcome and shared with me a piece of the city in the first step of my adventure. 

Dedicated to the three “S”’s - Sophie for her generous offer of allowing me to stay while she was away, and Sarah and Sofia who helped me see a side of Hong Kong that I couldn't get out of any travel book. 

“I’ve learnt that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.”

Maya Angelou - African American Author, Poet and civil activist.