8 days in Hungary

Well really it was 6 days but enjoy the opportunity to use a bit of tasteful pun humour. 

The train from Munich to Budapest began through the beautiful greenery of the Austrian countryside (a sneak peak at what would be exploring more in a few months…). After getting up at 5am and arriving an hour early for the train - a bit of over caution after last departure from Munich - I enjoyed meeting a kiwi on the train with his Austrian wife and their Austri-Kiwi son. They shouted me a coffee and shared some of the hot spots of Austria to explore the mountainside. Then after a 7 hour train journey I arrived at Budapest… 

On surfacing out of the metro station after some thorough checking of tickets (glad I made frustrating effort to get Hungarian Forints to pay for a ticket) I was immediately distracted by the riverside opening up to the Parliament buildings on the other side. Bridge after bridge crossing over to Pest, divided from Buda by the river. The two sides of the city which make up Budapest - I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to stay on the Buda side in the Castle District, beautifully green and only a look up the hill to see the castles towering over.  

First call of duty: lunch (don’t want to go Hungary). At a vegan Hungarian restaurant filled with delicious treats and fresh juices. Fuelled up and ready for missions through cobbled-stoned streets of Budapest. Architecture to admire and a Castle to explore. We arrived at the Budapest History Museum and decided to check out an exhibition of self portraits of Hungarian artists. Looking into the eyes of these interesting figure heads of past and present Hungarian culture. An interactive puzzle image of Heroes Square and its change over time was a the last piece to fit in our time at the museum. Then on for a tasting of Hungarian brewed beer enjoyed in the outdoors with a quiet street view in what would become a bit of a local place to enjoy a beer in the early evening sun - with an hospitable Hungarian who would recognise us in the street after a couple of visits. Time to head back to the cute apartment where I would rest my head for the next week to make tray time with hummus, crackers, Greek stuffed peppers, avo and tomato - accompanied by a very sweet red wine from a funky bottle. After relaxed conversations and a chilled evening the rain began, lightning created shocks outside the window view, the water powering down - lucky that this evening was not spent out exploring the city that has been generous in its opportunities. 

The next day the plan was to go on the Communist tour - a free walking tour with a local from Budapest - who would take us to key points of the city and explain in a very balanced way the different times of the city which was communist up until 1991. There were 3 stages, she explained, Stalinism - Happy Communism - Post-Communism. Until Stalin’s death in 1953 he was a prominent figure head in Hungarian communism, controlling and causing problems for those that did not follow or agree to his equal society. If you are not with me, you are against me. At his death Hungary changed to a period of Happy Communism, its name may not truly reflect the times, but up until the bankruptcy of Communism in this part of the world this was a time with some fond memories for our guide, family holidays paid for by the state, no jealousy of your neighbours possessions - everyone had the same - and if something was broken it was fixed by the state (even if it took a while)… The policy now changed to: If you’re not against me, you’re with me. 

A Communist joke shared: 

- Ok, your car is ready to pick up in 3 months and 10 years.

- Is that in the morning or in the afternoon?

- Why do you need to know, it’s in 10 years?

- The plumber is coming that day as well.

The following (and current) stage is Post-Communism. Where rapid inflation hit the country, accompanied with low wages and no subsidised holidays from the state. The poorly built and run down grey communist residential buildings which the owner is now responsible for any repairs to. A change in society as old habits die hard, a Parliament that hasn't changed - older generations accustomed to obeying. An understanding for why some people would not look you in the eye as a distrust of the people born from a culture of informants and corruption. However, an expression of hope coming through from the younger generations - something I experienced in my favourite ice cream place, my favourite beer drinking outdoor area and the local coffee house. Where I enjoyed the friendliness and hospitable nature of the people there. We found a great little cafe in the neighbourhood, stumbled across when I was locked out and on search for Internet. There we were served espresso coffee with a spotted baby jug of hot milk and chocolate croissants fresh out of the oven - an exciting smell drifting through small space filled with antiques and Hungarian literature - a welcome escape from the buzzing street and heat outside. An open friendly owner happy to share her love for Buda, where she grew up and the beautiful places to visit near by. As she mentioned the name of the near by village we were pleased to respond with that was out plan of the day - to go to Szentendre by boat.

As the boat arrived to its destination after a cruise along the riverside, it released us from the distracting American teenagers. We found ourselves at a cobbled-stoned village on the riverside decorated with colourful villas covered in ivory and a diversity of flowers that lit up the streets with pinks, greens, blues and white. We walked through the streets enjoying a lemonade with cut up bits of orange, lemon, mint, sugar syrup and soda water, very refreshing. As we walked from back street to back street to admire this quaint little village we found a comfortable looking courtyard to enjoy an espresso followed by a decision to do a mini pub crawl in this mini town. Starting with a half litre Hungarian craft beer produced 20 minutes away, appreciating the calmness and conversation in the sunny afternoon. Then to find another cute place that we had spotted earlier - already closed - we continued our search and decided that where we had been was the best place, so returned for another half litre and to complete the mini-est mini pub crawl in Szentendre.  

Running to catch the boat for the hour ride back to Budapest we settled in to enjoy the ride and were offered a delight for the eyes, the sun setting behind castles. River breeze flowing through our hair as the boat glided along treating us to the most beautiful part of the day. After a late start to the  next day due to over 30 degree temperatures and an evening finished with a couple more beers - we began the long hot walk to the Great Markets Hall, to find most stalls closing up for the day. A quick walk around to find fruit stalls and colours galore we purchased some eggplants and tomatoes for our dinner, and a very large handful of cherries for dessert with chocolate. Large and juicy these cherries definitely won as the fruit of this destination. 

My last day in Budapest arrived and it was time to enjoy some Hungarian cake in a tastefully decorated cafe with stylish music to match. A decadent cake filled with dark chocolate cream and cake layers, with bitter cocoa toffee and red currents to top it off matched perfectly with an espresso with a small jug of hot milk and a shot of mineral water on the side. To pass the afternoon watching the people wander by and making plans for a city and a time far away. Then a quick hot walk up the hill to the look out point to see a birds eye view of Budapest which extended far beyond where we had walked everyday for the last week. A lady reaching up to the sky as her sculpture companions guard at her side. A gentle walk back down amongst the trees and greenery of the mountain conquered and an appreciation for being here - a free week well spent in this last minute destination. 

Dedicated to Claire for her kindness in putting up a fellow travelling kiwi, her inspiration and helpful talks over Hungarian beer and espressos. And for making sure I didn’t go hungary in Hungary. 

Gardening in Germany

3 weeks and my first WWOOFing experience is over - I have dirt imbedded in my nails, am unshaved, have a few cuts and scrapes up my arms, some bruises from falling from the bike and feel stronger and fitter after working in the fields and biking trips in the afternoons. I marvel at the fortune of having found this farm and find delight in the diversity of people I meet and new friends I made in my time in Dogern, Germany.

I arrived in Waldshut a small town not far from Dogern and attempted to look like a lost tourist on the arriving train so the WWOOFers sent to pick me up could recognise me. It worked. Towards me walked a friendly face asking if I was Sarah, this was the Chief WWOOFer sent to greet the new arrival. We went straight to the main house and was again greeted by friendly faces and welcoming feeling. This was to be the house where I would have breakfast, afternoon coffees with a never-ending supply of chocolate and eventually stay. Wondering if I would be put straight to work I was pleasantly surprised that the first call of duty was an afternoon laying at the pool side, using the cool water to revitalise after a morning on the train and arriving to extreme temperatures. Then it was time to be introduced to “The Villa”, the house on the farm where the WWOOFers and other interns stayed. The driveway lead to a large barn, and the double garage filled with eggs to be sorted and a cooler filled with fruit and vegetables available for consumption whenever desired. The Villa across from the garage was an old farm house with gumboots laying outside and racks of shoes covered in soil having been used on the fields. As I was shown my room up in the attic I felt comfortable in this rustic setting. At the Villa we shared communal dinners of colourful salads, homemade bread and a selection of delicious cheeses in the outdoor patio, in the afternoons I  relaxed on the hammock while enjoying an organic beer after a tiring hot morning in the fields harvesting, pruning and weeding. 

It was then time to meet the 500 chickens that I would be visiting daily for “Huhn (Chicken) duty”. The smell was something that I would get used to but was not pleasant to the senses. The areas of laying boxes were to be checked for hens and the eggs removed. Getting right into it I had my first attempt at moving a hen only to be bitten and introduced to the grumpy ladies of this coop. As time went on I quite enjoyed my afternoon visit to the chickens where I could take time to collect the 400 eggs per day, feed the masses outside under the sun and speak any language to them (they weren’t going to judge my failing German words slowly learnt, or think strangely of my foreign accent or my spanish phrases). Later on when the daylight faded we would put them to bed - the last chicken would look around and hop off to its place in the hierarchy of the chicken “beds”. They were then disturbed from drifting into sleep by a kiwi with her head torch on, gumboots, shorts from afternoons adventures and her strange attempts to call them sweethearts and gently move them from the laying boxes to their sleeping spots. Some retaliate with more noise than bite but most are calm and only semi-responsive to the relocation. The roosters, however, are best to stay clear of as their purpose is on the higher end of the hierarchy - they create the “Hansel” side to the story of these Hansel and Gretel eggs. In Germany each year millions of roosters are slaughtered to reduce losses from feeding and housing them. At this farm they have made a conscience decision to find breeders that would raise and then sell on the roosters to the farm so they can pass their days with the hens until there laying days were over. They stay together and avoid the “fire” like Hansel and Gretel in the depth of the Black Forest. 

During the week after 8am (on the dot) breakfasts of fruits, muesli yogurt and homemade hazelnut bread with a fine selection of organic spreads - it was off to the fields or the green houses to harvest peas, lettuces, zucchini, and cucumbers - so many cucumbers. We also pruned the plants, weeded the herbs, and planted seedlings on the back of the planting machine where shade is appreciated and conversations continue. Tales, methods and the history of the farm was shared with interested WWOOFers ready to hear about and learn from life on the farm. The farm was first owned by a large company across the road, the project was created by a well respected women of the community, to feed good produce to the workers of the factory. One worker was distraught, after working there 20 years, when the farm was going to be closed - an agreement was reached and he was offered the opportunity to run the farm himself. After 4 hard years and almost at the point to abort the project he meet someone, and these two hardworking and friendly farmers are those that now run it. There is a love in the making of what the farm is today, the current couple came together to continue the farm and both bring strong attributes of passion and hard work to make the farm an enjoyable experience for all that cross its path. They have had the gardens certified organic and have extended the farm to have produce for the markets, the farm shop, deliveries to the local area and still to the kitchen of the founding company. This is where we go for lunch at 1pm (on the dot), looking out over a small village of in Switzerland, to be fed a large selection of top quality salads prepared with the vegetables we harvested from the farm. My favourite was the cucumber yogurt salad (meant to be had as a soup) with dill, raisins and walnut. To be followed by a hot dish that left you very full but completely satisfied. 

One day we decided to bike to this little village that we looked over from our lunch spot, the quaintness of this town is somewhat hindered by it being home to a nuclear power plant. A foreign concept to me. I had the pleasure of its view from my bedroom window for the first week, I awoke in the mornings with the sunrise creating a unique image of nuclear power vs the power of the sun. We regularly biked from Germany to Switzerland to swim in the Rhine on the Swiss side and enjoy picnics, wines and discussions with the other WWOOFers and interns on the farm. One day we decided to attempt to swim from Switzerland to Germany but as a large group we abandoned the mission as the strong currents were a struggle. Unsatisfied I made it a goal to achieve before departure - 10 days later the opportunity arose with a fellow French adventurer. We swam upstream from our favourite “beach” spot at the riverside. Then we powered across the Rhine when the current began to pick up, on the other side we touched German soil and caught our breathe before the return trip. This was more of an effort and I thought for a moment that we would drift down the river and have a long walk back… but there was wine and chocolate waiting for us and we pushed through and made our way to the other side just 50 meters from our picnic spot. Afterwards I sat by the riverside feeling accomplished and enjoying a wine I admired the skies reflection on the still water and the intensity and diversity of the green trees in the German side of the Rhine opposite us. The simple sounds of insects and birds celebrating a summers day. The gentle sun ending its day here and fading behind the clouds and off into the horizon to wake up New Zealand.

My first weekend spent in Dogern was filled with adventure and relaxation. Earlier in the week an invitation to the Swiss Alps for a walk was offered. Even if I was a “no” person, I think this opportunity would be hard to refuse. After three 6am starts on the farm the 5.30am start on a Sunday morning was no problem, I was going to the Swiss Alps. A big breakfast with the Eulenhof farm crew and cheese sandwiches prepared we began the hour and a half drive our starting point. We arrived to a picturesque Swiss town where we were immediately exposed to the cliche traditional dresses on a couple of girls heading up towards the church on this romantic Sunday morning. We rode the Gondola up the hill side and then set off for some steep climbs, surreal scenery and to enjoy the company of a lot of cows with bells creating a soundtrack to the hike. 7 hours later after some detours, large stops to admire the surrounding hills, villages and lake we found our way back to the village - refreshed, rejuvenated and at peace after a day spent wandering the paths of the Swiss Alps.  

A week later it was time to go for another adventure through the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) with a fellow WWOOFer. Driving an hour from the farm (being very cautious of being on the right side of the road), we set off into the valley to walk along the riverside - climbing up and down the surrounding cliffs. Half way throughout the walk we decided to stop for lunch. We scampered down an uneven grounding with a hope (/ fear) that trip back up would be possible. A hour by the riverside enjoying cheese sandwiches, placing feet in the cold cold river flowing down from the valley - and enjoying the serenity and space for thoughts to wander. After walking in the river, sitting in the sun absorbing its heat, it was time to see whether it was possible to return up the bank. Crossing the river with water to our thighs and a few slippery moments on the uneven rocks beneath our feet we made it to the other side. As I began to scamper up the bank grabbing for life a branch fallen but still strongly rooted into the ground I felt the soil and rocks beneath me fall away, not too high but half way up and with a fear that the drop could cause a bit of injury I hugged the tree branch and had a moments thought that maybe should have kept to the kind tracks that offered an easy alternative to the riverside, that moment passed, strength regained and final stage in sight. I carefully placed my feet on stable ground and had one last push up the branch and back on to the track. A bit dusty but unharmed and ready to set of on the final 2 hours of our hike through a valley in the South of Germany, which ended with a Rothaus bier produced in the area. 

To end my stay at Dogern I had a action packed weekend starting with croissant day. Friday is the day the farm shop is open which for us means croissants for breakfast and a selection of any fruit desired from the shop - which is beautifully prepared filled with a diversity of colours from fruit and vegetable, impressive to any eye passing by. After a day harvesting and then an afternoon preparing for departure, I was fortunate to be in Dogern to experience the evenings summer festival with traditional German brass bands, bratwurst sausages, beers and good company. After a few beers, a laugh with the playful band and a chat with some local Germans it was time to bike home under the starlit sky. The next morning was a 6am start for the markets in Waldshut. A little distracted after limited sleep I helped set up the stall, then got ready to serve the people slowly wandering down the cobble-stoned streets filled with fruit and vegetable stalls and delicious food to be enjoyed on a Saturday morning stroll. After a few moments of confusion and my repeated phrase “Kien Deutsch”, I found that even in a small town in Southern Germany most people spoke English. Feeling a little bad, as I was in their country not speaking their language, I made sure that my smile was always present. “Ich bin eine kiwi” and “Gib mir das Wasser, bitte” was the extent of my German speaking ability. After packing down the markets and enjoying an ice-cream of lemon with basil and strawberry jam I returned to the farm to quickly get ready for an afternoon playing at the local volleyball tournament (I wasn't really much help but had a good time). After a but of fun and avoiding the sudden down pour it was time to leave with a TV Dogern T-shirt gifted as a souvenir - sehr gut!

Finally the active side to the day was over and my tired body was ready for my farewell sauna in the beautiful natural settings, with the freedom to be openly you in Germany. The towel treatment in the 90 degree sauna with herbal infused water was extreme but a truly relaxing experience. After hours of walking around and baring all to see I returned to the house and saw my previous companion was walking around in her underwear, awkward I thought I should leave then realised that I had seen a lot more in the previous hours and was amazed at how quickly I returned to my set of thinking so far from the beauty of being content and relaxed about the human body in all its shapes and forms - as they seem to be here in Germany. After packing up, my day ended with a rich and luscious slice of Black Forest cake. Cherry liquor and rich dark chocolate throughly enjoyed. A grand and delicious way to end my time at the side of the Black Forest which offered nice beers, beautiful walks, a history of an organic farm and lots of cake. 

Ready for the next stage of my adventure: Budapest, Hungary. 

Dedicated to the Eulenof farm, especially Ulrike and Marcus. Thank you for your generosity, your openness and for growing a desire in me to cultivate own organic goodies back home. Also, a huge thanks to all the WWOOFers and to interns for your kindness and friendship.

Speaking Spanish in Munich

The moment had arrived. I was finally in Europe and as a smart cool traveller I had planned the beginning of the adventure with a six hour wait in Paris airport (with a pain au chocolat and expresso - a necessity while in France), then a 3 hour train ride followed by another 2 hour wait in Strasbourg and then the final stage to Munich, 5 hours by train. Relieved to finally be on my final leg of the journey I drifted off to sleep. I awoke to a stopped train and an announcement only in German, everyone started to leave the train and I began to wonder if learning a bit of German before coming to Germany  may have been helpful. I heard the word “Kaputt” and realised the train was broken and I needed to leave, I followed the crowd and found myself at another platform, the only train worker I found did not speak much English but motioned towards the train in front of us. I got on somewhat hesitantly but unsure what else to do. After 10 minutes of a mild panic and being cramped into a corridor of a full train I finally began to ask the surrounding few people if anyone spoke English, first try failed - second attempt was a success. He explained the situation and informed me of the station to get off and where to go from there. The first non-English speakers were very kind to this tired traveller stumbling over her large backpacks and almost at the edge of tears after 30 hours travel and feeling a bit confused in a world that sings a different tune. But their kind smiles made me realise I was here and I had made my first friends in Germany.

I finally arrived in Munich at 11pm after a long delay (what a surprise in Germany!) and no ability to communicate with my friend who would meet me. But he was there waiting - “Hola amigo!” After 5 years a friendship rekindled like it had only been 3 weeks. A short walk back to central apartment to share a German beer and catch up on a few years until eyelids could no longer resist closure. 

Exploring Munich by day the next morning I was immediately aware of the structure and height of the buildings, which apparently is a law. No building can be higher than the top towers of the main church in the city centre. Such a difference to the skyscrapers that were becoming the norm for me in Hong Kong - Munich seemed to be more my kind of city. A quick but appropriate tour of the city lead to the river where all of Munich seemed to be - everyone together at the riverside enjoying a drink and the beauty of the summer day. This was my first introduction to the relaxed nature of nudity in Europe. At parts of the riverside where all were having great time lay a few nude males relaxed in this open and popular setting. The police happily trotting along on their horses while a drunk Russian sung songs to the surrounding audience. Here I reminisced with a dear friend on our time in Mexico as students - speaking spanish at the riverside with an Italian living in Munich. On next to the Beer garden, the Chinese tower filled with people who have left work early and have headed to strengthen their right arms by frequently lifting a heavy glass filled with a litre of beer. As the sun began to fade some more friends joined us, we devoured an overly salted giant pretzel that I could hang off my arm matched nicely with my own litre glass of beer. Germans, tourists and families sitting below the branches of the chestnut trees in a relaxed but active Friday evening.  

More German beer was consumed over the weekend (have to try the goods of the country you are in) and later enjoyed in an outdoor area where all are free to bring their own drinks and hang out in the the town square. Here I witnessed the German mafia bottle lady. In Germany for every glass bottle returned you are paid 8 cents, and for every plastic bottle 25 cents. A lot of people take this up as a form of income cruising the streets collecting the bottles of beers - post-enjoyment - but this one lady had claimed this popular drinking area as hers and had workers who came and asked for the bottles and sat and waited for people to finish their beers to take the empty bottles. A slight distraction while having a nice evening out.   

My last day in Munich and slightly tired from trying German beers we decided to bike to the lake for a swim and relax by the waterside. Biking through the streets of Munich following my friend I had to set in place my survival skills as buses and trams flew past on the wrong side of the road - do something everyday that scares you (not kills you). We ended up taking an extremely beautiful scenic bike ride along the river. Then arriving at the lake where families were set up for the afternoon with their picnics and grills, showing a diversity in cultures in Munich - they were making the most of a sunny sunday. An enjoyable afternoon in what seemed to me like a very large but very crowded lake. I am used to being spoiled with space in a natural environment in New Zealand. We began the hour long bike back before the darkness took over and the police pulled us up for lack of lighting on bikes (my friend had suffered 4 tickets last summer and didn't want a repeat offence). Plus it was time to make pizza and enjoy a delicious meal of home made pizza base with mozzarella, prosciutto and rocket on top. A perfect way to end a weekend of German beer, bike ways explored, natural beauty in the city centre of Munich, buildings pleasant to the eye and perfect weather.  A tasteful introduction to Europe. 

The next morning as timing with the the metro was off, I had a mad rush with 7 minutes from arriving at metro station under train station to find my platform and train to Waldshut. Somehow I found my way to Platform 19 and boarded the train. I decided I better cheek it was the correct train jumped off to ask a train worker, a positive response. On quickly getting back on the train I found a seat the doors closed and the train departed, phew. Just in time for the next adventure, WWOOFing in Dogern, Germany. 

Dedicated to “El Pinche Toscano” for your friendship - and your amazing hospitality, delicious pastas and fine German beer shared over good talks. 

Getting Lost in Hong Kong.

After an impressive entrance by night I was ready to explore Hong Kong by day. I left the little apartment on the 28th floor (kindly offered, with occupants away in Thailand) in search of Wi-Fi to send “No panic necessary” messages to family of a safe arrival. I was to return to the apartment 10 hours later slightly sunburnt, with blistered swollen feet, a couple of beers in my belly and an exhaustion that can only come from a satisfying day of adventure. 

I headed off into the unknown with no idea of the time of day or where I was heading. The early morning smell of meat filled the streets while the men prepared their stock of hanging animal parts on the side of the road. It reminded me of the smell in the streets of Mexico City. I decided to head to the water’s edge and found myself at Memorial Park - the time displayed on the parks clock as 07:06am. Amazed at the already burning heat I had jet lag to thank for already being awake for a couple of hours. The park was filled with a range of ages and sizes running, walking, swinging arms and doing tai chi with the background of a still harbour bridging a gap between the islands of Hong Kong. After internet tasks were fulfilled I accepted an invitation to go to the Dragon Boat racing at Stanley beach in Southern Hong Kong. The only indication for directions was to take the No. 6 bus. Diverging from main street to main street where a bus (and then surely a bus stop) was spotted. At one stage I crossed the road 3 times then told myself this wasn't going to make the No. 6 appear on the bus timetable. Almost at exhaustion point with the heat and sore feet I headed over a bridge to what looked like an air-conditioned mall to look at the map and regroup options - when I looked down to the street below and saw at the No. 6 on the sign and almost heard the sound of angels, “Aaaahhhhhh” (high-pitched). The bus ride over the twin pecks from the second storey was breathtaking and worth the blistered feet. Passing through resort settings and arriving at Stanley Beach was welcomed with crowds, families enjoying the public holiday, swimming, building sandcastles and watching from a distance the racing of the dragon boats. The beating of the drums, the excited voices and the warnings played over a stereo system of extreme heat - “take the necessary precautions” - created a beach atmosphere that was unfamiliar to me. I took it all in and began to wonder if I would find the friend of a friend I was meant to be meeting up with. Describing myself as someone in a stripy top with the look of a lost tourist would be hard to spot amongst this crowd. Deciding not to worry and to enjoy I placed my tired feet in the sea and watched the boats and chanting in the distance. I bought a refreshing Thai beer and sat in the sand taking in my surroundings. Sufficiently hot and starting to become slightly bothered I decided to head back to town. On asking directions for the bus to town an Irish man asked, “Are you looking of Stanley Plaza?”. I replied that I wasn’t. After he left and I passed a sign towards Stanley Plaza I thought to myself - should I be looking for Stanley Plaza? So I took a detour and ended up at a beautiful spot above the water with the sound of live music echoing from below. I found a line of bars filled with people already slightly drunk into the early afternoon from the dragon boat festival up the road - here was where I managed to meet up with my new friends who would share with me top tips of Hong Kong.

I decided that Day 2 was the day to find some great Dim Sum, dumplings and noodle soup. I meet a friend at her recommended Dim Sum restaurant for lunch. Luk Yu Teahouse was an elegant traditional teahouse, surprisingly I welcomed the hot tea and hot food after a morning in the thick humid heat outside that slowed me down. My favourite, yet another surprise after a bad experience in New Zealand, was the Pork Steamed Buns, the fluffy and light outer bun with the inner tasty stewed pork - each mouthful a display of textures and flavours. New thing tried: steamed rice wrapped in lotus leaves, which was described to me like a tamale but with lotus leaves. My tastebuds were to be again treated that evening while dining alone at Din Tai Fung in Kowloon enjoying a steamed wonton noodle soup. It had a subtle but flavour filled soup base with spring onion, freshly made noodles, pork and shrimp wontons floating on top and finished off with some fresh strips of ginger. Again with a never-ending cup of tea. 

As well as being delicious these meals keep me going for the days adventures which began on Hollywood Road. A procession of coffin shops was my first observation on this famous street, having no real necessity for it right now I only stuck around long enough to admire the craftsmanship and beauty of these large wooden coffins. Next stop and by far one of my most enjoyable experiences was the Man Mo Temple, as I entered the high temperatures from outside were intensified in the temple. The air was thick and had an overwhelming stench of incense burning. The chatter of women inside talking in pairs was like a soundtrack to the colours (dominantly red and gold), dragon sculptures and offerings which created a conflicting atmosphere of buzzing spiritual activity inside the temple. On looking up in the temple I noticed that the spirals above my head were large incense burning which made the overbearing smell understandable. 

Then after another distracted walk through the streets I found the ferry to Kowloon. After heading to the Ladies Market and Sneaker street I found solitude in Kowloon Park - very much welcomed after overwhelming missions through the busy streets and markets filled with people and advertising. On heading to the waterfront of Kowloon (the opposing island to Hong Kong Island) I found myself on Peking St, I recalled reading that there was a bar here that had the best view in Hong Kong. In an attempt to not look so much like the stinky tourist having wandered off the streets with her day back and shirt soaked from days adventures and heat I equipped myself with red lips and went into one of the more expensive bars in Hong Kong, Aqua Spirit. I didn't expect to be let in but once I made it up to the 30th floor and let into the bar I looked out onto the array of city lights and buildings - a closer view of what I had enjoyed on the plane ride into Hong Kong a couple of days earlier. Impressed I sat down for a drink, I quickly realised that I had spent the majority of my days budget and only had enough for a mineral water, a small one. Lifting my head high I ordered my water and laughed at myself on the inside. After a very refreshing drink with a lime to add a hint of citrus and a bowl of olives I decided I wanted to head back onto the street where I belonged at this moment to watch the Symphony of Lights with all the other sweaty tourists. Not quite sure what to expect I thought it had already started as the buildings across the harbour never seemed to sleep. Then it began, an array of tempo music, laser lights shooting out the top of the high-rise building and the colours that spread across a grouping of the major skyscrapers. I had never seem something so strange in my life as I marvelled at the extravagance and matching soundtrack that played on the observatory. I took a night ferry back across to Hong Kong Island in a surreal and once again exhausted state. I stumbled back to my little apartment on the 28th floor and contemplated what Hong Kong may have to offer on my final day.

A slow start to the day to prepare for long departure journey which will finally end in Munich. Much to my pleasure I found that you are able to check your bags in in the morning for my evening flight in town. Then from there able to set off into the day. After some flavour filled pork and leek dumplings at a dumpling house I went off in search of a bus. Hong Kong transport is great, the MTR metro, the ferries, the buses - all cheap and quick (once found) - however my continuing battle was finding the right bus stop that would get me to my desired destination. This time the search for bus No.15. After wandering in the streets for almost 2 hours I found the brother of bus No.15C. I jumped aboard happy to be sitting out of sun and on way to goal of the day: The Peak. Once aboard and getting bearings I realised this bus only took me to the Peak Tram, not the Peak itself. Not wanting further crowds as I saw the line of people waiting to climb what I will not now know I looked across the road to “Hong Kong Park”. I had made my way near the Peak but chose lush vegetation, waterfalls, a whole heap of birds over crowds and heat under the demanding sun. After a bit of exploring in Hong Kong Park I found a Tea House where I watched the process of washing the mini tea pot and the pouring and washing of the leaves. An intrigue into the process and a calming way to complete an afternoon of crowded streets, with Hong Kong Park out the window and the gentle chatter of a few workers and tea drinking companions. I tried to regain my dignity from the sweating, red faced tourist with a bag too many, a small wet dress and sneakers on. Here this image fades into peacefulness as I drink tea and prepare for the next stage of the journey. 

My last few hours in Hong Kong I was lucky enough to have an invitation to a new friends house to experience the Candlelight Vidil - this year was the 25th anniversary and big numbers were expected. The MTR station filled with people heading to the largest gathering area in Hong Kong, Victoria Park. A powerful experience from the 18th floor of her apartment where you could hear the chants but enjoy a bird’s eye view of the largest gathering of people my eyes had ever seen. On June 4th, 25 years ago a group of people having a peaceful protest in Hong Kong were massacred, numbers are disputed but it was believed that around 1000 people lost their lives that day in 1989. The catalyst for the protest being Hong Kong powerful desire to have autonomy from main land China. Having walked through the park a couple of days before I was amazed at the amount of people present at this protest. A sea of candlelight looked artificial - as the time went on and more lights lit up the park, off in the distance the candlelight looked like a bed of ash still burning after a paper fire has freshly been put out. After watching the crowds disperse it was time to leave and start the next stage of my journey.

I thank Hong Kong and the people I encountered there who made me feel welcome and shared with me a piece of the city in the first step of my adventure. 

Dedicated to the three “S”’s - Sophie for her generous offer of allowing me to stay while she was away, and Sarah and Sofia who helped me see a side of Hong Kong that I couldn't get out of any travel book. 

“I’ve learnt that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.”

Maya Angelou - African American Author, Poet and civil activist. 

First Stop: Hong Kong

2013 was not my favourite of years so in December I bought a one way ticket to Paris and decided to explore, see some old friends and find adventure - while enjoying a variety of cultures and languages abroad. No real idea of destination or plan but with a burning desire to live, laugh, learn and make opportunities become realities and dreams become the everyday life.

First stop: Hong Kong. 

3 days to take a deep breathe and see where the next 6 months may take me, think a little about what it is I want to achieve and prepare myself for some awakening experiences. Also, to see a buzzing city and eat some great dumplings.

Waking up among a display of colourful skyscrapers filled with unknown people who start their day in this humid overcast city I thought back to last night: an array of glittering beads among an island like never seen before. Flying over the dark ocean which suddenly comes alive with colours and towers.

On the aeroplane I was pleasantly surprised finding my seat with plenty of space in the “bulkhead seating” (which I later found out as its name). As I sat and began to remove the necessities for my 12 hour flight I heard a friendly “Hi” and was to meet my flight companion. As I got up to put the bags away I immediately recognised that this person was not of normal height. If I had been less absorbed in unpacking my travel journal, kindle, pens, lip balm, mints (all necessary for the first 20 minutes that I can't access my bags) I may have noticed that this person had been accompanied by other rather tall men, who were wearing jackets with “New Zealand” on the back. If I has been more observant I may not have stupidly asked “Do you play basketball by any chance? Your quite tall.” After a positive response - I then continued my sports naivety, “who do you play for?”. I was then to find out that my travel companion was off to Russia to represent our county in the sport I know nothing off other than someone called Steven Adams has gone to play in the States. 

Apart from a slight intrigue and a few questions about what it was to be a Tall Black - the highlight of the plane journey definitely goes to flying over Manila. I had a sudden urge to lift the window blind and see if the blinding light of day was starting to fade. I noticed in the distance the clouds lighting up, on closer observation I noticed that it was not man made but large forked lightning. As a spiral of clouds contained this lightning, I was exposed to one of the most active sunsets I have ever seen. The lights below from ships like glow worms in the sea, a line of blood red on the horizon and the clouds awakening from within with shocks of colour (slowly and unnervingly getting closer and closer). A real treasure for the eyes and an opportune moment to stop and think - this is why I am here on this plane. To see things in this world that I could not even have imagined. 

Dedicated to Al for his continuing generosity and for supplying me with the tools to fulfil my desire to put some words on paper…